Difference between revisions of "Troubleshooting"
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# '''Most troubleshooting in foster care is about management.''' The dogs that come through WAGS generally do not have serious behavioral issues. Most of what you'll be dealing with is relatively simple stuff: chewing, counter surfing, nuisance barking, and so forth. These issues are best dealt with by not giving the dog a chance to practice bad behaviors, i.e., by managing his environment to keep him out of trouble. That's really all you have to do; nuisance behaviors tend to die out on their own if the dog doesn't have the chance to practice and get reinforced for them. | # '''Most troubleshooting in foster care is about management.''' The dogs that come through WAGS generally do not have serious behavioral issues. Most of what you'll be dealing with is relatively simple stuff: chewing, counter surfing, nuisance barking, and so forth. These issues are best dealt with by not giving the dog a chance to practice bad behaviors, i.e., by managing his environment to keep him out of trouble. That's really all you have to do; nuisance behaviors tend to die out on their own if the dog doesn't have the chance to practice and get reinforced for them. | ||
| − | In the unlikely event that you end up with a dog whose issues go deeper than the basic problems discussed here, please consult with your foster coordinator. Severe fearfulness, aggression, or separation anxiety may warrant professional intervention and are certainly beyond the scope of what the average foster caregiver should be asked to handle. Under no circumstances should you have to keep a dog whose behavior puts you, your household, or herself in danger. | + | In the unlikely event that you end up with a dog whose issues go deeper than the basic problems discussed here, please consult with your foster coordinator. Severe fearfulness, aggression, or separation anxiety may warrant professional intervention and are certainly beyond the scope of what the average foster caregiver should be asked to handle. Under no circumstances should you have to keep a dog whose behavior puts you, your household, or the dog herself in danger. |
With that in mind, here's a quick guide to troubleshooting some of the most common problems you may encounter. | With that in mind, here's a quick guide to troubleshooting some of the most common problems you may encounter. | ||
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== House Soiling == | == House Soiling == | ||
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| + | == Jumping and Mouthing == | ||
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== Separation Anxiety == | == Separation Anxiety == | ||
Revision as of 10:22, 28 January 2012
I want to preface this section with two caveats:
- Dogs are not perfect. Nobody's dogs are perfect. When I first started getting seriously into training, I thought that professional trainers' dogs must surely be impeccably behaved near-robots who never barked at strangers, always executed their cues with total precision on the first request, and probably didn't even shed. Yeah, no. Turns out they bark and blow off commands and leave hairballs everywhere, just like my mutts. Dogs are dogs. Expect them to act like it.
- Most troubleshooting in foster care is about management. The dogs that come through WAGS generally do not have serious behavioral issues. Most of what you'll be dealing with is relatively simple stuff: chewing, counter surfing, nuisance barking, and so forth. These issues are best dealt with by not giving the dog a chance to practice bad behaviors, i.e., by managing his environment to keep him out of trouble. That's really all you have to do; nuisance behaviors tend to die out on their own if the dog doesn't have the chance to practice and get reinforced for them.
In the unlikely event that you end up with a dog whose issues go deeper than the basic problems discussed here, please consult with your foster coordinator. Severe fearfulness, aggression, or separation anxiety may warrant professional intervention and are certainly beyond the scope of what the average foster caregiver should be asked to handle. Under no circumstances should you have to keep a dog whose behavior puts you, your household, or the dog herself in danger.
With that in mind, here's a quick guide to troubleshooting some of the most common problems you may encounter.
Barking
If barking is a potential source of trouble for you -- for example, if you live in apartment or condo with noise-sensitive neighbors who are home all day -- the first step is to ask for a foster dog who is likely to be on the quiet side. Beagles, hounds, terriers and toy dogs tend to be quite vocal. Senior dogs and young dogs (a year or less) tend to be quieter.
The next step is management. Use curtains or blinds to cover windows that look out onto busy streets or squirrel-filled yards where your foster dog might be tempted to camp out and bark at all the goings-on. Don't leave your dog outside in the yard where he might be tempted to bark to relieve his boredom. If your foster pup barks at you for attention or food, ignore his demands and reward him only when he sits quietly (remember: [[Nothing_In_Life_Is_Free| nothing in life is free!). If your foster pup gets over-excited while playing and erupts into spasms of barking, give him a minute or two in time-out to teach him that excessive noise makes the fun stop (but also be aware that this type of barking is difficult to quench, especially in the limited time you'll have as a foster parent).
Training a positive interrupt ("Quiet!" or "Thank you" used to cue the dog to stop alarm barking) is very similar to the Foundations#Attention.2C_Please.21! "Attention, Please!" exercise, and can be useful for dogs who like to sound the alarm a little too enthusiastically. Give the cue -- I use "Quiet!" -- and click/treat your foster dog for turning and looking at you. Do this until he seems to get the idea, then practice by interrupting him in not-very-interesting activities (chewing on an old familiar bone, wandering around idly, etc.). Gradually increase distractions and move the exercise outdoors. When that seems to be working, try it when he breaks into barking. Only click/reward when he is looking at you and being quiet. I don't train this cue routinely, because most of my adolescent foster dogs haven't reached the stage of maturity where they're regularly sounding the alarm yet, but it's a handy thing to teach if your dog seems to need it.
Destructiveness
Dogs, especially young dogs, like to chew things. Hopefully you have provided a wide selection and ample supply of chew toys for your foster pup to choose from, so that she won't be tempted to gnaw on your table legs instead. Manage her environment to remove temptations: if you leave your favorite shoes lying around in easy reach, and the foster pup destroys them, that's your fault, not hers.
If you're having problems with digging, the fix is even simpler: don't leave your foster dog alone in your yard. Some breeds, particularly terriers, dachshunds, and other "earth dogs," have been selectively bred for hundreds of years to pursue small prey underground. You can't expect these dogs not to dig; the instinct is in their blood. If the foster pup were your dog, and you had the space to spare, it might even be worthwhile to build a dedicated doggy sandbox in your yard. But since this dog is likely to be a temporary tenant in your life, unless you plan to dedicate yourself to similar breeds in the future, it's probably best just to manage the problem by limiting the dog's access to your yard and garden.
When you leave the home or are otherwise unable to supervise your foster pup, crate her. Put a stuffed Kong and a favorite chew toy in there to keep her occupied, and don't leave her crated more than a few hours per day, but use the crate.
Make sure your foster dog is getting plenty of exercise, both physical and mental. A dog who has acceptable outlets for her energy is less likely to burn it off by destroying your things. Puppies play constantly; healthy adolescents and young adults of most breeds need a minimum of 60 to 90 minutes of vigorous exercise per day. Mature adults still need 30 to 60 minutes. Walking on leash does not count as vigorous exercise for most dogs. Jogging, off-leash hiking, or romping at the dog park (assuming your foster pup is up to date on vaccinations and appropriate flea, tick, and worm preventatives, and is dog-social enough to enjoy the park safely) are better alternatives.
After the first week or so, walk in new neighborhoods: seeing new sights and smelling new smells is more interesting, and thus more mentally tiring, than the same-old same-old of your own block. Training is great stimulation; practicing Obedience 101 and schooling your foster dog in a few tricks are valuable exercises not only for their own sake, but in keeping your dog entertained and mentally limber.
If your foster dog only destroys things when you aren't around, and especially if her damage is focused on doorways, windowsills, and other thresholds, it is possible that what you're dealing with is not destructive boredom, but separation anxiety.
