Intensive socialization is imperative if your foster puppy is under 4 months. This is the critical period where the dog gains the most benefit from new experiences and is most psychologically damaged by isolation. At around 4 months of age, for most dogs, the socialization window starts to close. You can and should still make efforts to socialize older dogs to novel sights and sounds, but your program probably won't work as quickly or be as effective as it would be with a younger dog. (That said, unless you specifically ask for a rehab case, any adult foster dog you receive will probably not be severely undersocialized, if only because such dogs tend to present with obvious fear or aggression issues and are seldom selected for rescue.)

Intensive socialization is imperative if your foster puppy is under 4 months. This is the critical period where the dog gains the most benefit from new experiences and is most psychologically damaged by isolation. At around 4 months of age, for most dogs, the socialization window starts to close. You can and should still make efforts to socialize older dogs to novel sights and sounds, but your program probably won't work as quickly or be as effective as it would be with a younger dog. (That said, unless you specifically ask for a rehab case, any adult foster dog you receive will probably not be severely undersocialized, if only because such dogs tend to present with obvious fear or aggression issues and are seldom selected for rescue.)

Socializing most dogs is very simple, although it does take a lot of time and a ton of treats. All you have to do is expose the dog to as many new people and situations as positively and safely as possible. The goal is to teach the dog that not only are new things not scary, but they are actually pleasurable and should be regarded with happy anticipation.

Socializing most dogs is very simple, although it does take a lot of time and a ton of treats. All you have to do is expose the dog to as many new people and situations as positively and safely as possible. The goal is to teach the dog that not only are new things not scary, but they are actually pleasurable and should be regarded with happy anticipation.

Link those rewards to the new stimulus, and always keep the novelty to a level that does not intimidate your dog. If you're socializing your ball-crazed dog to tall men with beards, ask such a man to play a few rounds of fetch with him. If you're socializing the dog to car rides, take him on short trips to fun new locations and try not to drive him anywhere unpleasant. (If you ''do'' have to drive him somewhere un-fun, such as to the vet's office, try to stop a ways from your ultimate destination, play a few quick games in the parking lot, and then walk to the bad place.) If you're socializing him to potentially scary equipment such as a wheelchair or walker, get an empty one, sprinkle a few treats around it, and let the dog investigate them at his own pace. Later, progress to a slowly moving wheelchair, then one with a person inside.

Link those rewards to the new stimulus, and always keep the novelty to a level that does not intimidate your dog. If you're socializing your ball-crazed dog to tall men with beards, ask such a man to play a few rounds of fetch with him. If you're socializing the dog to car rides, take him on short trips to fun new locations and try not to drive him anywhere unpleasant. (If you ''do'' have to drive him somewhere un-fun, such as to the vet's office, try to stop a ways from your ultimate destination, play a few quick games in the parking lot, and then walk to the bad place.) If you're socializing him to potentially scary equipment such as a wheelchair or walker, get an empty one, sprinkle a few treats around it, and let the dog investigate them at his own pace. Later, progress to a slowly moving wheelchair, then one with a person inside.